Splendours of Morocco
by Izza Genini, photography by Jacques Bravo and Xavier Richer
published in 2000 by Tauris Parke Books, London & New York
I want to stamp mud all over Splendours of Morocco. I want to scuff up the
pages, throw it in the gutter, staple together some pages, spill coffee over
its cover and bury it for thirty years. Only then might I like it. As it
is, fresh off the press with all its hundreds of beautiful colour pages
smelling faintly of ink, I feel nothing but distaste for it. It is an odd
emotion for me for I have a completely unbalanced affection for Morocco. I
love books about Morocco. I love postcards about Morocco. I love
photographs about Morocco. I love films about Morocco. I love Moroccan
music and Moroccan food. Why do I dislike Splendours of Morocco so much?
Is it because it looks like a collected edition of all the publicity stills
of the Moroccan Tourist Board? No it can't be that. I avidly collect these
pamphlets and posters. They have variety. If you look back across the last
few decades they provide an intriguing shift in cultural perceptions. It
was all couples on the beach in the 60's, palm shaded golf courses in the
70's, adventure hiking in the 80's while we are well immersed in the decade
of the bazaar and the palace hotel.
Is it because the book fails to include a single photograph of a working
modern city, a motorway, an airport, let alone a train or a car? Ok, we
don't need tractor factories, rubbish dumps, traffic jams, dead junkies and
power stations. But we could have coped with a street cafe, a newsagent or
a packed rural bus. Far from bannishing just the 20th century, the picture
editor seems to have decided to remove any trace of the 19th century as
well. We have only camels and mounted cavaliers.
Is it because the book is completely obsessed with the poor subsistence
economy of the Berber mountain villages? Is it because the endless
succession of handsome portrait photographs of these women at their
festivals give a completely false impression of the country? No modern
traveller will see such faces which are determinedly veiled at the approach
of any stranger. However I have learnt just how desperate the average group
of camera-wielding visitors are to secure similar such images.
The text, a page long introduction to each chapter of photographs, is
concise and informative. There is much good detail here, the Casablanca
suburbs of Ain Diab and Ain Sebaa are revealed to be "eye of the wolf" and
the "eye of the lion" whilst I was fascinated to read that Andalucia is
derived from anda lucia, 'before the sun'. However it is clearly translated
from an original French text. No-one would with a respect for English would
claim on page 57 that the bustling 700,000 strong city of Meknes "retains a
passion for horses, and all the traditions associated with them". On the
following page the traditional Moroccan equestrian display, the fantasia, is
deemed to be "a living tableau based on the paintings of Eugene Delacroix
and others". This is very strong, even from the French. However the
assertion on page 77 that the Atlas Berbers find, "the possession of any
forms of telecommunications is considered shameful" is just too bizarre to
contradict. Buy it and bury it.
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